Home Cooking Gourmet Blog

The must is still fermenting. There is an odd smell (not like rotten eggs, which would indicate the presence of hydrogen sulfide).

I’m learning about the role of sulfites in winemaking (preserves). Adding sulfites adds sulfur dioxide which does several things: kills bacteria, speeds up alcoholic fermentation, prevents oxidation, and spontaneous fermentation of wild yeasts. Heating the must above 176 degrees F obviates the need for sulfur dioxide.

Well, whoops. I just found out that a sterilizing solution (not just plain water) should be used in the airlock. Sterilizing solution: 2 oz metabisulfite in 1 gallon water. I’ll keep it sealed in a jug for later use.

I decided last night to restart the stuck fermentation. I sprinkled 1/4 tsp of wine yeast in the solution and let the yeast rest on top (to get some oxygen).

This morning: bubbles galore! The yeast does not start fermenting immediately, but reproduces the first 12 to 24 hours hence little visual activity.

I’ll take an S.G. reading after fermentation subsides. Target: 1.030. This tells us the yeast is doing its job. Then the must gets racked to another airlock container.

This may be the cause of the stuck fermentation:

Day 2 describes the method I used to introduce the yeast to the must. But according to Lavlin (maker of the Montrachet yeast) website:

REHYDRATION

Dissolve the dry yeast in 50 mL (2 oz) of warm NOT HOT water (40°- 43°C / 104°-109°F). Let stand 15 minutes without stirring, then stir well to suspend all the yeast. Add to previously sulfited must.
(The yeast should not be kept in the rehydration medium longer than recommended.)

Note you can also stir in 1/4 tsp. of sugar to proof the yeast. Check with the yeast manufacturer because it may not be necessary, or desired.

Took the specific gravity of the must: 1.092

Very little bubbles on top. Lack of bubbles and high specific gravity tells me the yeast is not working. They were working great in the rehydrator (i.e. yeast in warm water with later added must). After I poured it into the must it seems all activity nearly stopped. There were a few bubbles around the edge but that is about it.

The temperature of the must vs. rehydrator was about equal.

Stirred every day to distribute the yeast.

I’ll move wine to cubes with airlocks and put in room at 72 degrees.

I moved the wine (not racked) using a ladle to a cubitainer with airlock. Use a sterilizing solution, not water, to fill the airlock half full. Room temp is 70 degrees. Covered cubitainer with cloth to keep any residual light out. I’ll be looking for bubbles in airlock which shows sign of CO2 being given off by yeast.

Friday, Oct 28, 2011

Not much to do today. Saw several bubbles around the edges – tells me the yeast is at work. Stirred up the juice and covered back up. Tomorrow, I’ll check the specific gravity. BTW, the ambient temperature is about 71 degrees (ideal is 70 to 75 degrees).

As the yeast convert sugar into carbon dioxide and alcohol, the sugar content (i.e. specific gravity) goes down. Our target is 1.030 which means the juice can be transferred to an airlock container. I’m using a gallon cubitaner (plastic cube shaped container) which was from a wine kit I used in 2006. It has an airlock on it.

Day 2, Oct 27, 2011

In the morning I stirred in pectin enzyme into grape solution. The pectin enzyme clears out pectin which makes wine cloudy. Covered with cloth.

Waited several hours. Took the specific gravity: it was 1.076. It should be at least 1.095. I added 1 cup sugar and mixed well. Let it sit for a few hours, stirred, then measured specific gravity: it was 1.096. You don’t want to get the S.G. much over 1.100 or else the sugar overload will kill the yeast.

Now it is time to add the yeast.

I am using Montrachet wine yeast. After much research, I found out that there is 1 gram of yeast for every gallon of must. 1 gram is approximately 1/3 tsp of yeast. Note that a gram specifies weight whereas teaspoon specifies volume, so I had to find out the proper conversion for yeast.

I started rehydration of the wine yeast. Added 1/3 tsp yeast (1 gram) to 1/4 cup 105 degrees water. Let sit 15 minutes. It was starting to bubble. Added 2 tablespoons of wine juice to get the yeast accommodated to it. Waited a few hours then added mixture to grape solution. Covered back up with cloth.

== mistakes ==

I should have:

1. stirred the yeast after adding it to the water to break up clumps

2. added the rehydration fluid about 20 minutes, which is what Lavlin yeast directions suggest.

I’ll stir must every day (to agitate and distribute the yeast) then in 5 or 6 days (after vigorous fermentation is done) I’ll transfer to an airlocked container.

Day 1, Oct 26th, 2011

Off we go!

Note that I sanitize everything in a solution of 1 tsp potassium metabisulfite and 1 gallon water. After much searching, no one can agree on what makes a good equipment sanitizing liquid. I’ve seen measurements from 1 tsp to 3 tbsp of potassium metabisulfite to 1 gallon water.

Placed 6 cups grape juice and 10 cups water (I used reverse osmosis water) into primary fermentation pot. Stirred in sugar, yeast nutrient, and one crushed Campden tablet. Covered and set aside.

This was a banner year for Concord grape harvest – at least for us. We had a plethora of grapes from fifty year old vines – so much so, we gave away a lot. We made the grape juice right after harvest. Also made several jars of grape jelly, but that is another story.

I decided to try and make wine from scratch. After talking to a few vintner friends and scouring the Internet, I am documenting everything. Note that I will go back and edit some of the entries as I discover new information.

The recipe below is modified from the wonderful Jack Keller site.

Recipe - Concord Grape Wine

Makes one gallon (4 bottles) of concord grape wine.

• 6 cups Concord grape juice
• 10 cups spring water
• 3-1/4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp pectic enzyme
• 1 crushed Campden tablet
• 1 tsp yeast nutrient
• 1/3 tsp wine yeast (1 gram)

Hardware

• hydrometer (measure specific gravity)
• test tube (for hydrometer readings)
• potassium bimetasulfite (sanitation)
• primary fermenter (large pot that holds over a gallon of liquid)
• cloth or towel to cover primary fermenter
• thermometer (measure must temperature)
• secondary fermenter (I’m using 1 gallon plastic cubes with an airlock)
• siphon
• glass rod or food-grade plastic spoon (for stirring. Needs to fit inside secondary fermenter)
• wine thief (I use turkey baster. Buy a separate one.) for extracting samples
• acid level test kit (titration)

Directions

Place juice in primary fermenter and add water, sugar, nutrient, and crushed Campden tablet. Stir well to dissolve sugar, cover securely with clean cloth and set aside.

After 12 hours add pectic enzyme and recover. Check acid level (should be between 0.65% and 0.80%) and make adjustments. Must be done before adding yeast.

After additional 12 hours check specific gravity. If not at least 1.095, add sugar and stir until dissolved, then add yeast. Fermenting for Concord wine is best at 70 to 75 degrees.

Stir daily (raises yeast from the bottom) and check the S.G.

When S.G. reaches 1.030 (5-6 days) siphon liquor off sediments into sterilized glass secondary and attach airlock. Check S.G. after 30 days. If 1.000 or lower, rack into clean secondary and reattach airlock. Rack again after 2 months and again after additional 2 months. Allow to clear, stabilize, sweeten if desired (1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar syrup per gallon), and rack again into sterilized bottles. Allow to age two years in bottle before tasting. Improves further with additional aging.

I purchased supplies from homebrewit.com They shipped everything within a few days. I am very happy doing business with them.